Venice was always a bucket-list destination for me. And rightfully so. The island of Venice can be described by more than just its canals which are often a selling point. Quaint, narrow streets intersect with tremendous plazas with ornate basilicas and towering statues of Venetian royals from generations past. One moment you're strolling along a quiet path near a narrow canal and passing charming restaurants owned by old married couples, and the next moment you're discovering the Palazzo Ducale, the palace alongside St. Mark's Square, the gathering point for every large-scale event in Venice. I absolutely loved my time in Venice because it exceeded any expectations that I had for the city, and while our stop in Venice was nearing the week mark in Italy, I wasn't over the whole daily pasta thing. I was ready for Venice.
Day 1: May 16
We took the train from Florence to Venice and dropped our bags off at our hostel which was on the mainland by the train station. We then took the express train over the water to Venice. When exiting the train terminal, we were immediately greeted by the Grand Canal and the Church of San Simeone Piccolo (great name, huh). We were hungry, and it was suggested to us by friends that we make our way to Gam Gam, a kosher restaurant in the Jewish Quarter of Venice. While the Jewish Quarter is a notably beautiful area rich in history, I'd be doing an injustice if I try to explain the significance of the area in this blog post - I just can't summarize all of the great history here. While dining at Gam Gam, it was a hot afternoon along the canal, but I still started with soup... their famous Matzah ball soup. Gam Gam boasts a lengthy menu of Jewish staples with an Italian twist - an unmatched duo if I must say so myself. While my friends indulged in the Shwarma, I dug into the cous cous with salmon. My meal was a bit spicy, and pairing the heat of my lunch with warm soup and the beating Venetian sun, I was rather toasty. But Gam Gam was amazing and I'd go back in a heartbeat.
Throughout the afternoon, we explored St. Mark's Square and took a tour of the Palazzo Ducale. I fell in love with the quiet lifestyle as we wandered beyond the touristy streets. We made a point to have no dinner reservation so we were forced to ask locals for a recommendation . And that was the best thing we could've done. We ended up at Ristorante La Bitta, a small, cozy spot off the beaten path. We were waited on by the owner who was exceptionally hospitable, and although we were clearly tourists, it was like stepping into his home as he welcomed us with open arms. My dinner was exceptional: I enjoyed the gnocchi with zucchini and saffron, which came out steaming and creamy with an unforgettable aroma. The gnocchi was perfectly pillowy, the zucchini so perfectly flavored, and the fresh parmesan so well shaved. La Bitta exceeded all expectations.
Day 2: May 17
With our second day in Venice being our one full day, we meant business. My friends and I had a packed day, and that started with an early train back into the city and taking a water taxi to St. Mark's Basilica for a tour. After we got our church fix, we went back to the Jewish Quarter for a tour of the Venice synagogue and stumbled upon a lunch spot called Osteria al Mariner right on the water. Just like La Bitta, this spot was family owned and operated, and was where all the locals joined us for lunch. While the menu was limited, we were in Italy - we liked everything. And when I say I had my favorite bowl of pasta in Italy here, I mean it. I still think about my squid-ink spaghetti to this day. Unlike squid-ink pasta in the States which is usually just noodles dyed black, this was pasta and chunks of squid in a sauce that was truly ink-black and got messy really quickly. But I was seriously impressed by the creaminess and flavor in every bite.
After lunch, we took a water taxi to Murano, a small island off the island of Venice known for glass-blowing warehouses - we took a tour of one and window shopped the expensive chandeliers they made and were trying to sell for tens of thousands of dollars. We eventually ended up back in the main island, took a gondola ride, and enjoyed the evening enjoying pizza and wine, petting local dogs as they ran around unleashed, and watching the sunset over the beautiful city. Venice was everything we could've imagined and more.
You surely packed in a lot of sightseeing and good eating in a short period of time. Love the combo travelogue / food reverie.